Regular Oil or Synthetic Oil?

[speculative]

What do ya think? Many WRX owners are switching over to synthetic oil after their 7500 mile oil change. Is this a good idea in general? (The WRX is a bit different though because it's a turbo.) I have heard from some people that synth oil can almost makes things "too slippery."

-spec

[mackerel]

I have no idea what type of oil is in my car, I let the dealer rip me off each year in an annual service. I do very low milage so I never have to do it any more often.

Having said that, I think they pour in Castrol Magnatec. If it is any good (relatively) is another matter.

[Ian Newson]

I think what is ment by "too slippery" is to do with the oil viscosity. All oils are given ratings eg 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 etc. Use a too thin an oil and it wont protect properly, use to thick an oil and it wont spread around the engine correctly (especially at start up).

From what I can make out the WRC needs 5W-30 (dont quote me on it) but it may be worth checking with the oil manufacturer to make what sure they recomend .

On a side note mackerel we use Castrol Magnatec and have had no promblems with it.

[Farabomb]

I used to work on cars but don't take this as gospel.

If you switch to synthetic Spec you have to use it for the life of the car. Synthetic tends to find places to leak out that conventional oil won't. I switched on my scooby and it started peeing oil out the front cam seal. Mine was a older motor with miles on it so you shouldn't have problems but remember that synthetic costs more and it will add up depending on how often you change your oil. I don't have a turbo motor and if the turbo is plumbed into the oil lines you will get lots of contaminates(sp) so regular changes is good.

That's another thing, changing oil every 3,000 mi is something that oil companys started. It's B.S. oil eaisly lasts twice as long before it stops doing it's job. I change every 6k-10k but that's me.

Also, I used to think that the higher weight oil works better. I was wrong. With motors now the tolerences are so tight that the thicker oil does not get into the spaces where it's needed. If it says 5-30 (mine does) you should use it.

Good luck with your scooby Spec. I'm still looking for a 22B :D

I know you have a spell check here but I can't figure out how to use it.:doh:

[speculative]

Thanks for the feedback. :) I'm still a ways away from my first oil change, but I'm doing a lot of research on various car things.

-spec

[Gservo]

I have been using Synthetic in me monte carlo for a while now, would never go back...

[RanGer498]

rule of thum when you have new motor its best to use regular oil for the first 5,000 miles then go synthetic ..synthetic is best for turbos cars .....too.trust me i know i have had tubo cars since the early 90,s and have a turbo beast thats putting down well over 600rwhp
as for oil changes well porsche recomends every 6-8k miles i belive or more but there motors are made a little different
i suggest an oil change every 2000 miles on a turbo car dont forget a turbo car breaks down oil much more faster than a regular non turbo car and a turbo motor need more protection as for oil vecosity thicker is a little better only resone most car companys now go with 5w30 is due to energy conservation i run 15w-50 durring the summer since the summer is hot and the oil wont get thick but durringthe winter i run 5w-30 since the oil is thiner and helps to get to major areas quicker ..

: The color depicts the viscosity grade:


Higher-Mileage
Vehicle Formula
10W-30
The best-selling grade of Mobil 1.
Ideally suited for higher-mileage vehicles that require a higher viscosity grade.
Exceeds API SL and ILSAC GF-3. Certified as "Energy Conserving."

Newer Vehicle
Formula
5W-30

Helps keep your engine running like new.
Original equipment in Chevrolet Corvette.
5W-30 is the grade recommended for many new vehicles.
Exceeds API SL and ILSAC GF-3. Certified as "Energy Conserving."


Enhanced Fuel
Economy Formula
0W-30
Delivers the best fuel economy in the Mobil 1 line.
For quicker cold starts and faster protection.
Protects during high-temperature, high-stress situations.
Exceeds API SL and ILSAC GF-3. Certified as "Energy Conserving."

European Car
Formula
0W-40
Recommended for newer European vehicles.
Meets performance specifications of European automakers, including Mercedes-Benz, Porsche and BMW.
Exceeds API SL.

Mobil 1 0W-40 is factory fill in all Porsche vehicles, all Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles and all Aston Martin cars


Performance
Driving Formula
15W-50

Excellent for supercharged and turbocharged engines, muscle cars and amateur racers.
The highest viscosity Mobil 1 available containing the SuperSyn™ anti-wear booster.
Race proven.
Exceeds API SL.
Mobil 1 15W-50 is factory fill in Ford Mustang Cobra R.


*Use these as guidelines only. You should always follow the viscosity grade and API service category recommendations listed in your vehicle owner's manual
click here for mobile one color chart s (http://www.mobil1.com/supersyn/index.jsp)

click here for mobil 1 FAQ (http://www.mobil1.com/supersyn/faqs.jsp)

click here for mobile 1 tech info (http://www.mobil1.com/supersyn/tech_details.jsp)

cllick here for mobile 1SuperSyn story (http://www.mobil1.com/supersyn/supersyn_story.jsp)

NOTE:Info was taken from mobil 1 web site:

The following is part of the Formula Atlantic Motor kit instructions, from TRD:

To ensure long life and reliability you must properly break in your freshly assembled engine.

For a high performance street motor fill the engine with a good grade 20W-50 Mineral based oil. Fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge.

Re-install the spark plugs. Now you are ready to start her up. Start the engine and bring it immediately to 2,000 rpm. Vary the engine speed between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes stop the engine, check the valve lash and re-torque the head bolts. Drain the oil and change the filter. Re-fill the engine with 20W-50 Mineral based oil.

Drive the car slowly for about 500 miles keeping the rpm under 4,000. Don’t lug the engine either because that’s worse for the motor than over revving it. After 500 miles change the oil and filter again. You can now use a synthetic oil if you want to. Use a 20W-50 oil and change it every 3,000 miles. Your engine is now broken in.

For a race engine broken in on the dyno the procedure is a little different. Note that this procedure is for a race clearanced engine.

For the initial run use a Mineral based 20W-50 oil. Run a hotter spark plug than you normally would run. Prime the oil system and the fuel system. Start t6he engine and bring it up to 2,000 – 3,000 rpm with no load. Watch the oil pressure and check for leaks. After 30 minutes stop the motor, check the timing, re-torque the head and check valve lash. Then, run the engine with a light load between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for another 30 minutes. After 30 minutes change the spark plugs to the normal heat range you are going to run. Do a full throttle full load pull up to the bottom of the power band. Quickly chop the motor.

Check the spark plugs and the BSFC numbers if your dyno is equipped to do so to confirm the jetting. If everything looks good do a full throttle full load pull.

The engine is now ready to race.

[Neo]

I use Synthetic in my Civic and it does just fine. I like the every 7500(or 5500 when I do it). I was changing it every 2400 mile with regular oil)

[daver]

Originally posted by speculative
What do ya think? Many WRX owners are switching over to synthetic oil after their 7500 mile oil change. Is this a good idea in general? (The WRX is a bit different though because it's a turbo.) I have heard from some people that synth oil can almost makes things "too slippery."

-spec

Let me break this down for you,unless you are talking about race applications or a high RPM motor that is spinning over 9000 RPM,such as a motorcycle engine,you are wasting your money on synthetic oil unless you purpose is to go 8000 miles between oil changes,which I would not reccomend doing.

Synthetic oil is designed to stay stable at high tempuatures,as opposed to the viscosity breakdown that would be the norm in a regular oil,that is where the "too slippery"comment would come in,but the fact is a normal passenger vehicle would never put it to the test.The truth of the matter is oil companies,and the places that sell oil changes,are extolling the virtues of synthetic oil for the simple purpose of making a bigger profit,not to improve the performance of your car.

I own a 73 Camaro drag car that is capable of an 8 second quarter mile and turns over 9,000 RPM on a regular basis,and I do not use synthetic oil in it,I use Pennzoil 20W50 and it works just fine.

Hope this helps you out.

[mackerel]

Looking at the posts above, I am wondering if we do things a bit differently in around here.

I think for most modern cars, the manufacturer's recommended oil service interval is typically from 6000-12000 miles depending on car, at least once a year regardless of mileage. For mine, the recommended interval is 9000 miles though I usually do less than 5000 a year.

[RanGer498]

sorry i cant agree with you there 100% since his car is turbo charged,
synthetic i think works best in turbo cars, since turbo cars tend to break down oil faster than a regular motor (non turbo)since they produce more heat and need as much protection as they can get to prevent chocking (i think thats how you spell it ?)of the oil.

for a drag and track car i too think 20w50 will work fine but on the street for a daily driven stock car synthetic 5w30 is more than perfect

also read this to help you understand
click here (http://www.exxon.com/exxon_lubes/superflo/pgtigertips.htm)

Originally posted by daver


Let me break this down for you,unless you are talking about race applications or a high RPM motor that is spinning over 9000 RPM,such as a motorcycle engine,you are wasting your money on synthetic oil unless you purpose is to go 8000 miles between oil changes,which I would not reccomend doing.

Synthetic oil is designed to stay stable at high tempuatures,as opposed to the viscosity breakdown that would be the norm in a regular oil,that is where the "too slippery"comment would come in,but the fact is a normal passenger vehicle would never put it to the test.The truth of the matter is oil companies,and the places that sell oil changes,are extolling the virtues of synthetic oil for the simple purpose of making a bigger profit,not to improve the performance of your car.

I own a 73 Camaro drag car that is capable of an 8 second quarter mile and turns over 9,000 RPM on a regular basis,and I do not use synthetic oil in it,I use Pennzoil 20W50 and it works just fine.

Hope this helps you out.